What is gold filled?

At Camille Colette, we primarily use 14-karat gold filled wire for crafting our jewelry. For us, it's a noble material, a perfect alternative to solid gold due to its strength and durability. This alloy contributes to the quality of our pieces. But what exactly is gold filled? And why is it our material of choice? We answer these questions in this article.

Gold filled: definition

Gold filled, or "or rempli" in French, refers to an alloy between a base metal (often brass, but also silver, bronze, etc.) to which a layer of gold is applied using a hot compression technique. The gold and the base metal are pressed together very strongly and at a very high temperature.

This technique allows the two materials to fuse, which gives it its great strength. The gold filled designation is only possible if the gold content is equal to 1/20th of the total weight of the jewelry, or 5%. Gold filled is available in yellow, white, or rose. It can be 9, 10, 12, or 14-karat gold. Karat is a unit of measurement that corresponds to the amount of gold in an alloy; it is calculated in twenty-fourths of a proportion (pure gold is 24 karats). This last element mainly influences the color of the jewelry.

This alloy is quite common in Anglo-Saxon countries, as it originated in the United States. But gold filled has been gaining popularity in France for several years. However, it is not a new technique, as it was already known in the 1920s-1930s under the name "double gold." But it was long relegated in favor of gold plating, which is still widely used today.

⏩Also read: our materials

The differences between gold filled and gold plated

Gold filled can easily be confused with gold plated. However, they are two very distinct things. Firstly, their manufacturing process is not the same. Gold filled results from the hot compression of two metals. Gold plating is done by electrolysis.

Finally, during the creation of gold-plated jewelry, the piece is first produced and then gilded. In the case of gold filled, the piece is made after the gold and base metal have been compressed.

The advantages of gold filled

Gold filled has several advantages that appeal to both artisans and customers. First, it closely resembles solid gold because it has the same color. However, it is much cheaper and thus more affordable.

Once produced, it is ready for use; it does not require the intervention of a gilder, as is the case for gold plating. Consequently, manufacturing and delivery times are shortened. Furthermore, it is strong and resistant; it presents little to no risk of oxidation. You can therefore keep your jewelry intact for many years.

Finally, it is hypoallergenic insofar as the skin is not in direct contact with the base metal.

The disadvantages of gold filled

Although it is very attractive, gold filled still has significant limitations. It is very delicate to work with. Any goldsmithing intervention such as cutting, heating, brazing, etc., can alter the integrity of the gold and thus diminish its resistance, its rustproof quality, or its hypoallergenic properties.

Some operations are even completely impossible. Consequently, creative possibilities are restricted, and some jewelry cannot be made with gold filled. Finally, its supply remains limited today.

Caring for gold filled

Gold filled jewelry, like the rest of your jewelry, requires regular maintenance if you want it to last. Daily, you can clean it with a soft cloth to avoid damaging its surface.

From time to time, you can also give it a more thorough cleaning. For this, nothing is more effective than water and soap. Gold filled is a water-resistant alloy. Then dry it with a cotton or microfiber cloth. Washing with toothpaste and a soft-bristled toothbrush is also a good solution.

⏩To learn more: 4 tips for cleaning your gold filled jewelry

Gold filled is an alloy that is increasingly appealing to artisan jewelers. Both aesthetic and resistant, it closely resembles solid gold but is much more affordable. At Camille Colette, we are convinced by its qualities that allow us to create unique and durable jewelry for you.